How to start a retinoid routine without irritation

Vitamin A is one of the most effective ingredients in skincare. It's also one of the most abandoned. Most people who give up on retinoids do so in the first few weeks — before the results have had a chance to show — because the introduction was too fast, the concentration too high, or the formula too harsh on the skin barrier.

Starting correctly makes the difference between a routine that works and one that gets written off. Here's how to do it.

Should you use retinoid in the morning or at night?

Retinoids are photosensitive — UV exposure degrades the active ingredient and reduces its efficacy, which is why Superstar and Superstar+ are designed for evening use only. Apply after cleansing as the last step in your nighttime routine. If you are not sure which one is right for your skin, read how to unlock your best skin with Vitamin A.

The botanical oil base in Superstar and Superstar+ supports the skin barrier and helps reduce moisture loss overnight. Whether you follow with a moisturiser depends on your skin. Oil delivers the active and supports the barrier, but it does not add water to the skin. If your skin is dry or dehydrated — particularly in the early weeks as your skin adjusts to increased cell turnover — a moisturiser applied over the top provides the humectants that draw water in and seal everything in place. If your skin is balanced or oily, you may not need to layer a moisturiser on top. It’s down to how your skin feels.

In the morning, SPF is non-negotiable. Vitamin A increases your skin's sensitivity to UV radiation. A broad-spectrum sunscreen applied every morning is an essential part of any retinoid routine, year round.

How often should you apply retinoid when starting out?

Begin with two to three applications per week. This is how retinoids are designed to be introduced. Your skin needs time to upregulate the enzymes that process vitamin A, and starting gradually allows it to do so without triggering unnecessary irritation.

Some people experience mild purging in the first two to four weeks — small breakouts or flaking as the accelerated cell turnover brings congestion to the surface more quickly than usual. This is a normal part of the adjustment process and not a sign that the product is wrong for your skin. Purging passes, and is a sign that the active is working. The key is to stay consistent and resist the urge to increase frequency before your skin has adapted.

Once your skin is tolerating two to three applications without issue, increase to four or five nights per week and eventually to nightly use. The entire adjustment process typically takes six to eight weeks.

Can you use retinoids with AHAs and BHAs?

On nights you use Superstar or Superstar+, avoid AHAs, BHAs, and other chemical exfoliants. Both retinoids and exfoliating acids accelerate cell turnover — using them together in the same evening increases the risk of over-exfoliation and barrier disruption. On alternate nights, your usual exfoliating acids can be used as normal.

Vitamin A is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. If you have any concerns, consult your doctor before starting.

How much retinoid should you use?

Applied to the face and décolletage, one pump of Superstar or Superstar+ is sufficient to cover the skin evenly. Using more does not accelerate results and might increase the likelihood of irritation without any added benefit.

What are the most common retinoid mistakes?

Using too much too soon is the most common reason retinoid routines fail. Doubling up on applications, skipping the gradual introduction, or immediately reaching for the highest available concentration are all fast routes to irritation, barrier disruption, and giving up.

The second most common mistake is giving up too early. Vitamin A works by influencing gene expression in skin cells and stimulating collagen synthesis — these are not overnight processes. Meaningful improvements in texture, tone, and fine lines take a minimum of eight to twelve weeks of consistent use to become visible. If you stop at week three because you haven't seen results, you haven't given the ingredient enough time to work.

A third mistake is choosing the wrong form of vitamin A. Traditional retinol requires multiple conversion steps inside the skin before it becomes active, and each step increases the likelihood of irritation. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) bypasses this process by binding directly to retinoid receptors, which is why Superstar and Superstar+ deliver results with significantly less reactivity. If previous retinoids caused persistent redness or sensitivity, the issue was likely the formulation, rather than vitamin A itself.
If you're not sure of the difference between retinol, retinal, and HPR, this guide covers it clearly.